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Buying A Reining Horse ~ by Ted Baker Reining
Horses |
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~ Buying A Reining
Horse ~
It is so easy - I mean EASY to buy a horse. Once you've
got him, however, he is yours. (We are talking about young
prospects only here but, some of the same stuff applies to older
horses). The money you spend in feed, training, etc. is going to
probably be as much or more than the cost of the horse. It is
absolutely essential that you make the right decision - leaving emotion
and loving instincts behind and using cold-blooded calculation to select
the absolute best prospect that your money will buy. Buying a prospect because he came up to you and nuzzled you, or
because you feel sorry for him because he is smaller than the others, or
because his left front leg turns south, and you don't think anyone else
will treat him right and protect that leg, is a recipe for disaster.
You wouldn't buy a car with a bad transmission or a blown engine, would
you? No!!! It won't serve your purposes. It won't get
you there. You will choose the best vehicle your money can buy. I like to buy prospects late in their yearling year, or early in
their two-year old year. This gives them a chance to grow and
develop for as long as possible before I make a decision.
Hopefully, they have gotten through the awkward stages and can give me
an indication of the horse they will become. If I try to save
money by buying a coming yearling, they invariably change, and I can
only guess at whether those changes will be good or bad. Buying as
late as possible gives me the opportunity to reduce my percentage of
mistakes. Physically, I am looking for overall balance and a pleasant head and
neck. If you haven't read the "trapezoid theory" in Bob
Loomis' book, I would recommend that you do so. It clearly
explains how the correct proportions make the horse more functional.
If he is put together correctly, it is easier for him to perform the
maneuvers and avoid the risk of injury. He can't be talented if it
is difficult to do his job. A couple of things that I am death on. A prospect must
have short cannon bones. This increases the quickness of his front
feet and provides greater overall strength to avoid injury in his front
end. Horses that are down hill (withers lower than the hip) have a
much more difficult time stopping. Not only that, they are
uncomfortable to ride. This horse is out of balance (see previous
paragraph), and I will usually reject him for that reason. Of course, I want all the legs pointed the same direction, and I want
them to set squarely beneath him. I won't reject a horse that toes
out a little bit in front if all the other things fit together. But, any
conformation fault cannot be severe. It should be slight. No
horse is absolutely perfect ... if there is one, I haven't seen him yet. A prospect should move flat and smooth. I would like to see his
feet just kiss the ground at the lope as if there is no effort in his
movement. I want him to step deep with his hocks naturally.
This gives me an indication that he will collect and round easily.
The easier things are for him, the more productive his training program
will be. There is a physical arrogance that some colts manifest. You can
see it in the way they walk and lope, but you can also see it in the way
they just stand in the stall. Physically, things are easy for them
(much like an world class athlete), and if you look closely, they will
tell you. When I'm looking at a prospect, I will try to get a chance to handle
him a little bit. I will try to put him in some kind of a bind,
and see how he responds. Maybe I will walk him over a 4x4 or
through a mud puddle. I want to see how he responds to adversity.
If he just blows up, I may reject him. If he just acts like a dead
head, I will reject him. But, if he approaches the problem and
tries to let me help him find a solution, I think he might have a pretty
good mind. He has told me that he won't blow up in a pressure
situation, but that he can learn, and will try to learn if I approach
him in the right way. Pretty. This colt had better be pretty. If my customer is
planning on making a commitment to this horse, we will all be making a
big investment in him ... financially, emotionally ... and in time.
I want my customer to be able to realize success, and whether it is
financial, or just personal gratification, it is a lot easier to do this
with a pretty horse. Size. The best horse I ever rode was about 13 1/2 hands. My
father had a full brother to Diamonds Sparkle. He was the second
best horse I ever rode. He was 15 1/2 hands. Bloodlines. There are a lot of nice horses out there. I like to
stay with the Reining and Cutting horse bloodlines. The Dunnits,
Smart Chics, Topsail Whiz's, Grays Starlites, Roosters are all nice
horses. They have proven themselves capable of producing winners.
If you can afford to play in that game, that is great. But, there
are a lot of other nice horses who can produce winners, and they might
not cost as much to play, and the end result might be just as good.
In the end, if you want to get big money out of your horse, you may have
to spend the money up front and buy a name brand. On the other
hand, you might just be saddled with a failure. The big names
produce failures just like the lesser known sires. We have a couple of breeders who produce nice colts with good
breeding who aren't in the "high dollar name brand" category.
These colts have tons of ability, but have not had much opportunity to
get out and become well known. We would be happy to take a look
for you. I'll leave this topic with just one thought. Remember to leave
emotion and feelings at home when you start looking. If you can
relinquish the control, it is worthwhile to have a professional do the
job for you. He will approach the situation with a lot more cold
blooded perspective than you will. And, he has to ride the horse
and answer to you if he is wrong. |
The Judge's Choice is proud to present this article for your reading pleasure and sincerely thanks Ted Baker Reining Horses and Mr. Gary Baker for submitting it to our Library.
6/11/02